Ask An Esthetician: Nandi Wagner of Bliss Spa Soho Breaks Down Dermarolling

Ask an Esthetician: Nandi Wagner Breaks Down Dermarolling

Today I have another interview. This time, it’s with Lead Esthetician at Bliss Spa in Soho, Nandi Wagner. Nandi took some time out of her day to answer some questions I had about dermarolling. When I first found out about the procedure I was aghast. Rolling needles across your face sounded terrifying and seemed like too much. However, I realized that just because I see it on youtube doesn’t mean it’s not grounded in something real so I’m thankful Nandi gave me the real on dermarolling. So if you’ve wondered what all the fuss is about keep reading.

What’s your opinion of dermarolling and is it a procedure you perform regularly?

Dermarolling or any micro-needling method, when done properly, can be an incredibly effective way of rejuvenating the skin and improving texture, firmness, and tone. The science behind the method is this: When the skin thinks it’s been “injured” it immediately kicks into repair mode and begins creating new skin cells. When the needles are maneuvered across the skin it tricks the skin into thinking it’s injured & triggers the skin’s repair function. This stimulates circulation, collagen production, and improves product penetration. The method I am most familiar with is Meta Therapy; small polycarbonate needles are maneuvered across the surface of the skin along with a treatment serum packed with active ingredients chosen based on the needs of each client.


Is dermarolling for anyone or does the person need to fit certain criteria (ie some lasers don’t work well on dark hair/skin):

Dermarolling or micro-needling is great for anyone who has deep-set lines and wrinkles, uneven texture, or severe acne scarring. If you’re prone to keloids or scar very easily look into other methods of rejuvenation. The needling can aggravate and cause keloids to form. Also, anyone suffering from Rosacea or couperose skin conditions should avoid any needling treatments. It can increase redness & lead to an increase in broken capillaries.  

It seems treating acne scars with a dermaroller is being covered more in media. Have you notice that it is more, less, or as effective as other methods like peels, serums, and exfoliation.

When it comes to post-inflammatory pigmentation Dermarolling is as effective as peels but more efficacious than serums or general scrubs. However, when considering deep scarring that comes from cystic acne micro-needling treatments are ideal in improving overall texture. Micro-needling works very quickly to stimulate collagen production & boost skin cell turnover giving you results sooner than with more traditional methods.

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My introduction to dermarolling was through a vlogger. Is this something a lay person can do at home or are they better off seeing a professional?

I highly recommend seeing a professional for any Dermarolling or micro-needling treatment. Estheticians both in spas and dermatologist offices are trained in the science of skin but also go through repeated education on the tools used for these types of treatments. We know exactly how to use the tools, what needle length should be used, proper sanitation procedures, what areas cannot be treated, etc. Also, the rollers & needles used in spas are professional grade & tested to be used safely on clients.  

I’ve read that subpar tools are a potential hazard with dermarolling. A poorly made dermaroller can lead to a needle breaking off in the skin. Are there are any other hazards that you’re aware of and how can they be avoided?

Beware of tools that cannot be sanitized & properly cleaned. Bacteria can grow on the bases of the needles and lead to infections later on.

Do not use a dermaroller daily as this can lead to dryness, peeling, irritation, & overly sensitized skin. Also, be mindful of the length of the needle on the roller. Using a roller with needles that are longer than necessary can cause excessive pain & bleeding. Any needle over 0.75 mm should be used by a professional only as it is easier to cause serious injury to the skin when in untrained hands.

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Last, and certainly not least, be sure to use SPF daily when using a Dermaroller. Since exfoliation is being quickened & new skin cells are being created faster, the skin can become incredibly photosensitive & needs extra protection. This is especially true for darker skin tones. UV rays can increase hyperpigmentation so ensure your hard work isn’t in vain & protect yourself!

So there you have it. I feel a lot better about the dermarolling procedure and understand its purpose. I hope you do too. If this is something you’re interesting in see a professional. Thank you to Nandi for sharing her expertise with me and my readers.

Check out the video below for more.


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